Submitted by: Maia Stark, Gallery Assistant
Enamel
application is a method of decoration which has been practiced since ancient
times, across various cultures and geographies. Although the exact origins of
this process are unknown, excavations on Cyprus in the 1950s found cloisonné enameled jewelry which date
from the 13th and 11th century BC; as well, other techniques of enamel
applications can reach back as far as the 5th century BC! (AJU)
Enamels
have been applied to stone, pottery, jewelry, and other surfaces throughout
Greece, Scotland, Ireland, Asia, and the Middle East (Wikipedia). The process of
enameling is, at its simplest, a decoration technique in which glass of a
certain composition is fused to an underlying metal. This style of adorning
jewelry, in particular, allowed for colour and vibrancy in jewelry without the
use of gemstones—stones which were either inaccessible economically or
geographically. While enameling jewelry may have begun or been popular as an
alternative to gemstones, enamel in jewelry came into its own in Europe and
North America during the Neo-renaissance and Art Nouveau periods (AJU). Some of the most
beautiful and creative examples of enamel jewelry come from these periods.
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Rene Lalique, Art Nouveau Plique-à-Jour Dragonfly Brooch, Lang Antiques. |
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Cloisonné enamel plaque, Byzantine Empire, ca. 1100, Wikipedia. |
Contemporary
artists, however, work in a wider range of textures and design. Deborah Potter,
a professional craftsperson with the SCC, creates one of kind pendants with
enamel processes.
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Enamel pendant by Deborah Potter |
The
above image of a pendant made by Deborah Potter captures her organic use of
texture, colour, and design. There are many various techniques of enameling,
such as Cloisonné, Champlevé, Peinture sur émail, Émail en
ronde bosse, Guilloché, and so on. These techniques can vary greatly or
slightly from each other, though they all have the same basic steps in common.
Enamel,
as a material in itself, is a type of allochromatic glass that consists
usually of quartz sand, iron oxide, potassium oxide (potash) and borax (AJU). Melting these
components together, firing at temperatures between 700 and 900 degrees
Celsius, creates what is referred to as a “fondant,” or “flux:” a transparent
and colourless (though slightly blue/green) glass. The addition of different
metal oxides or chlorides establishes the variety of colour in the fondant,
which is eventually applied onto a clean metal, typically gold, silver or
copper alloys (AJU). After the fondant has
dried, the piece needs to be fired again in a furnace or kiln. Placing the
enamel piece back into the kiln or furnace helps the piece gain a vitreous
lustre, a favoured characteristic of enamel work, though the artist could
polish the piece by hand for a more controlled, flat look.
For
an in-person look at Deborah Potter’s enamel jewelry, come by the SCC Fine
Craft Boutique, located in the Saskatchewan Craft Council’s Affinity Gallery at
813 Broadway Avenue, Saskatoon, SK.